Supplying Water to your Cabin with a Driven Well by Jack Hudson
Perhaps the cheapest type of well to construct is a driven well.
However, its use is limited to locations where the ground is
free from layers of heavy rock. Such a well consists of a well
point, drive pipe, and connecting couplings. The well point is a
length of steel pipe that is perforated; it has a screen for
straining the water and a conical tip which is used to pierce
the soil. The tip should be at least 2 inches in diameter.
There are two different types of point. The regular point is
used in sandy soils. The washer well point is used in gravel.
This type has drilled and countersunk holes fitted with brass
wire gauze. Drive pipe usually comes in 5-foot lengths. It
should be galvanized so that it won't rust and should have
externally threaded ends to receive the couplings as sections
are added.
To start work on a well of this type, spade out a shallow hole
in the ground. Next, you will want to make a drive assembly
unit. This assembly consists of a nipple, coupling, and a
malleable iron drive cap. Apply pipe joint compound to the outer
threads at the top of the well point and screw on the drive
assembly.
Tighten the whole business with a pipe wrench. You are now ready
to start driving the point into the earth. When you have driven
the first length about three-quarters of its length into the
ground, remove the drive cap and nipple. Leave the coupling
attached so that you can add a length of pipe. Apply joint
compound to the threads again and connect the pipe length to the
well point.
You'll find that each blow from your maul tends to loosen the
joints. Tell Junior to give the pipe a twist after each blow.
When it gets too difficult to drive the assembly any more--use a
tripod over the well. Suspend a heavy block from the apex and
use a rope and pulley to drop the block on the top of the
assembly.
Sometimes water appears in the pipe, but more often you will
have to lift the pipe out to see. When the point has been driven
far enough, lower the suction pipe and foot valve into the well.
Hook up a pump and test the flow of water. You may find that the
flow of water is small at first.
The point is probably clogged. It will probably clear itself as
you continue pumping. After you have finished driving the well,
slip a reducer fitting over the suction pipe and screw this to
the top of the drive pipe assembly to cover the gap. If the
small opening of the reducer will not fit over the suction pipe,
file it.
Any of the pumps mentioned before will be satisfactory for this
installation. In the accompanying illustrations I have shown the
important details of such a system. A jet or reciprocating pump
is used.
This is one type of well that you shouldn't try to do yourself.
If water is too deep to be reached by any other method, or if
rock lies between the surface and water level, you may have to
use a drilled well. But this is a job for a professional. Find
out from your neighbors who has a good reputation--then hire him.
About the Author
About the Author: Jack Hudson is a writer for
http://www.log-cabin-plans-n-kits.com and
http://www.best-house-n-home-plans.com/. These two sites work
collectively as a resouce for the planning and building of log
cabins as well as choosing from different house plans. Visit one
of these sites for informative articles as well as free TIPS for
building a log home or choosing a house plan.
<< Home