Choosing the Right Pipes and Plumbing System for Log Cabin by Jack Hudson

Choosing the Right Pipes and Plumbing System for Log Cabin by Jack Hudson

Choosing the Right Pipes and Plumbing System for Log Cabin

Galvanized steel pipe is usually used for the line from your
well to the pump. There is another type of pipe that can be used
on the cold water services of your system. This pipe is made of
polyethylene. It looks like a garden hose but is many times
stronger. It has the advantage of being much more flexible and
lighter than any of the rigid types. Never use this type of pipe
on hot-water lines.

One cubic foot of storage space holds 7.48 gallons. The capacity
of a round container is 1/2 the diameter multiplied by itself X
3.14 X the depth X 7.48. If a cistern is 10 feet in diameter and
6 feet deep, the capacity is (5 X 5 X 3.14 X 6 X 7.48) 3,523.08
gallons. Sea level: In talking about the lift of various pumps,
I have said that certain pumps would be satisfactory if the
water level was within 22 feet of the surface of the earth.

Such a pump would lose about I foot of suction lift for each
1,000 feet of elevation above sea level. If the altitude at your
camp site is 2,000 feet, a shallow-well pump will have to be
located within 20 feet vertical distance from the working normal
water level, instead of 22 feet.

As you would expect, cottages include space for bathrooms. Some
camps show a shower instead of a tub. The plumbing problems are
similar for all the camps.

The locality in which you build may have some special
requirements. Do check with local authorities. You may decide to
have the local plumber install all your piping and fixtures. If
so, you probably aren't interested in this section. But if you
have decided to turn plumber, the description below should be
helpful.

All the necessary parts can be bought from your local plumbing
dealer, or from the major mail-order houses. It is also possible
to rent the necessary tools. Where do we start? If I were doing
the job, I'd start with the fitting that drains the seat and
tub. On the floor of the bathroom mark where this fitting (I) is
to go.

Most seats measure 14 inches or less from the back of the tank
to the center of the closet bowl. Cut a hole large enough to
take the small end of the closet collar. Install this fitting
permanently in position with the closet bend sticking up to
within 1/2 to % inches of the floor surface. It will be
necessary to support the fitting with wood or metal hangers.

The stack base (part 2) is usually connected to part I.
Sometimes it is necessary to add an extension piece if the stack
base is to be located in a basement or if your camp is on a
steep hillside. The stack base has two tappings: to one you can
connect the drain from the shower or tub; to the other you can
connect the kitchen sink drain, if necessary. If concrete slab
is used, pipes below floor level must be installed before slab
is poured.

Calking the joints is done by packing them with strands of
oakum. A yarning iron is helpful in getting the oakum well
pushed down. When the joint is about two-thirds full, hammer it
all down tight. Fill the remainder of the opening with molten
lead.

When the lead is cooler but not set, tap lightly around the hub.
When it is cool, pound with more force. The stack base end
should point toward your septic tank or sewer. I would install
the lavatory basin next. Part 3 goes on top of part I. You'll
find that this fitting will slip up and down in part I. This
allows you to adjust the height of the lavatory basin.

This fitting has three tappings. One is for the lavatory basin,
the second is for the kitchen sink, and the third for laundry
tubs if there are any. Close any unused tappings with cast-iron
plugs. Before calking fitting 3, mark on the wall where the
waste pipe from each fixture will enter the wall.

Adjust the height of part 3 so that the height of the lower
tapping is at the same height as the lowest waste pipe. Then
lower part 3 about 1/4 inch per foot of horizontal run to allow
for drainage. You are now ready to calk this fitting as you did
parts I and 2.

The next step is to install the vent pipe. Measure the distance
from the top of part 3 to about I foot above the roof. Cut and
thread the pipe and screw it into the lavatory fitting 3. Some
systems use an increaser at the top of this pipe. If you are
going to use the cottage only during the summer, the increaser
is an unnecessary part.

Use a standard vent-pipe flashing around the top of the pipe.
You're over the worst of it now. The only thing left to do is to
run the various pipes from the fixtures to parts I and 3. Drum
trap (4) should be installed below the floor, trap cover down,
between the tub or shower and the closet-tub fitting (I).

Where it is necessary to make turns in the drainage lines, use
90-degree fittings. To install the seat, place the closet bolts
in the closet collar so that the threaded ends extend upward
through the flange. Set the collar in the floor over the top of
the closet bend and calk in place (5, 6, and 7). The asbestos
gasket that comes with the seat should be put over the closet
bottom outlet, the seat moved into place, and the nuts tightened.

There is the drainage system of your cottage--except for the
disposal unit. If there is a central disposal system or sewer
that you can use, it is probable that the connections to it will
have to be made by a licensed plumber. On the other hand, if you
are going to install a septic tank, you will want to read on
into the next section to find out what to do.
About the Author
About the Author: Jack Hudson is a writer for
http://www.log-cabin-plans-n-kits.com and
http://www.best-house-n-home-plans.com/. These two sites work
collectively as a resouce for the planning and building of log
cabins as well as choosing from different house plans. Visit one
of these sites for informative articles as well as free TIPS for
building a log home or choosing a house plan.