Avoiding leaks when installing vinyl retrofit windows by John Rocco

Avoiding leaks when installing vinyl retrofit windows by John Rocco

Avoiding leaks when installing vinyl retrofit windows
These days a lot of homeowners are replacing their old windows with vinyl windows using the retrofit style of window frame. This is particularly true in the west, and specifically, in California. The number one arguement that I have heard against using the retrofit method, is that it is susceptible to water leaks. Well, that's true if you don't do it properly. But, if you do a complete tearout of your old window down to the studs, you're going to have water leak issues there as well if you don't install the new window properly. So I think that arguement is, well, all wet. So, let me tell you the best way to install your retrofit windows that will ensure that water cannot get in.

There is an old song that goes, "It never rains in California, but girl don't they warn ya, it pours, man it pours". For those of you in California, you know how true this is. While California doesn't get a lot of annual rainfall, when it does rain, it can come down in buckets due to the close proximity to the ocean. So, you want to be sure that your windows are well sealed. If you are installing retrofit frames against a stucco house, you want to put a thick bead of sealant right on the outside face of the old window frame, all the way around. Latex caulk should work fine, but if you want to spend a little more to get the best sealant available, use 100% silicone. Depending on the number of windows you will be doing, this extra cost can add up. You pay approximately $1 for a tube of acrylic latex caulk, and $4 or more for a tube of 100% silicone. You are going to use 1-3 tubes per window, depending on the size. So you can see how it could add up. Here is a trick that I used to do to save a little money; The most vulnerable part of your installation is the top of the window, because gravity will have the water running down from the roof to the ground. It's not likely that water is going to find it's way through the sides or bottom. So, I used to carry two caulking guns, and load one with the silicone, and the other with the acrylic caulk. I would run the silicone accross the top of the old frame, and caulk the sides and bottom. Then, put your new window into the opening and have a helper hold it firmly in place while you plumb and level it, then screw it into place. After you have the window completely installed, your final step should be to caulk where the retrofit lip meets the stucco. Here again, I used to use white silicone on the top, and caulk on the sides and bottom. You now have a double barrier against water infiltration. After about a week, check the sealant around each window for signs of cracking. Because stucco is usually uneven, there could have been gaps that were larger in some areas than in others. If you don't force the caulk into the gap to completely fill it, the caulk can sag before drying, causing a crack to form. Simply recaulk over any cracks that you see. You can check the silicone on top as well, but because silicone dries like a rubber substance, you shouldn't see any cracks there.

OK, what if the replacement windows are going between wood trim surrounding the opening? If you are using the retrofit lip, and trimming it to fit between the wood, then you still apply the heavy bead to the old frame before installing the window. But, instead of sealing where the retrofit lip meets the stucco, you seal where it meets the wood. Then, you want to be sure to seal above the window, where the top piece of wood meets the stucco. Again, use silicone up there. Now, no water can run down the stucco wall and get under the top piece of wood. Sometimes, though, you might decide not to use a retrofit style frame between the wood, choosing a block replacement frame instead. If you choose to do it this way, you have to add trim to the outside. You still want to apply the sealant to the old frame, then apply your trim so it contacts the new window as well as the sealant on the old frame.

If you follow these procedures, you won't have to worry about any water penetrating into your home, I don't care how hard it pours!


About the Author


John Rocco has been installing
replacement windows since 1978.
To learn more, visit How To Install Windows

Designing a Good Lighting Plan by Paul Forte

Designing a Good Lighting Plan by Paul Forte

You are doing a remodel and know that you want to add some lighting to the room, but your stumped. Where do I start is the most common question I get asked. There are some basic guidelines and factors that can help you determine where to start and how to proceed.

First let's take the room and it's needs. Different rooms require different lighting solutions. Rooms like bedrooms, living rooms, dens and basements can be properly illuminated with a simple general lighting plan. In rooms up to about 12' x 12', one ceiling light that can hold bulbs that combined equal about 120 watts is sufficient. For a better and more evenly disbursed light, 4 recessed lights about 40" off each corner works wonderfully.

A living room or den may be a rectangle as opposed to a square. A room that is 15' x 12' would be more evenly lit with 6 recessed cans. In these rooms lighting can be supplemented with wall sconces and or table or floor lamps.

Kitchens and bathrooms require much more thought. In these rooms, where tasks are performed, it is important that the lighting level be high enough to perform these tasks safely and comfortably. In a good kitchen lighting plan all the work areas will be well lit. Placing the cans so that the centers line up directly above the outside edge of the cabinets is the best solution. This provides ample light and avoids shadows while working at the counters. Spacing in a kitchen is also very important. Keeping the recessed lights about 4 feet apart and no more than 5 feet, will assure you have even spread of light.

If you run into a wall and need to ask questions about lighting try a Lighting Forum. There are some basic lighting principles that can help you along in this process. One is understanding that light in most fixtures has some type of pattern. For example a recessed light using a reflector type bulb distributes a pattern in the shape of a cone. When this pattern reaches the floor it is in the form of a circle. By slightly overlapping this circle of light it is possible to have a very even distribution of light throughout the room.

Since most of the members of a household walk upright and the ones who don't, probably won't lodge any complaints about lighting, a general rule in lighting a room is to design the plan on a work plane. This is an imaginary plane at about 30" off the floor. This helps to provide a nice even lighting for most tasks in any room. This is where understanding the pattern of light your fixture has is important. Most manufacturers have specs to show what these patterns are. For reflective bulbs you can get this info from the bulb manufacturer.

(c) Copyright 2005 Paul Forte. All rights reserved.


About the Author
Paul forte has been in the lighting industry for over 25 years. For more info and tips on lighting and other electrical needs please visit www.forteelectric.com